OJ0JR – Market Reef

Henri, OH3JR will be active again as OJ0JR in Market Reef, IOTA EU – 053 from August 18 to 24, 2024.
He will focus on the 40 – 10m band, CW, FT8.
Nearest DX Point OJ0JR
OJ0JR Log Searchsearch QSL via Family Call.
Direct QSL advertising:
HENRI OLANDER, HELAVALKEANTIE 15, FIN 13270 HAMEENLINNA, Finland.

Merket: An uninhabited Swedish-Finnish island

Lists of unusual country borders are often found on the Internet. For example, there are territorial anomalies on the borders of the United States and Canada, the Netherlands and Belgium, and many more. The border between Finland and Sweden on the small island of Melkert in the Gulf of Bosnia in the Baltic Sea looks just as strange. The problem is that it has a strange Z shape. What is the story behind this fact? Why does this island belong to two countries at the same time?

Unusual jagged border

Melkert should be called a “rock” – a small rocky island with its coast cut by a narrow strait (fjord). It is the smallest island in the world and is divided by two countries. Geographically, it is located in the South Kvarken Strait. Surprisingly, there are two time zones on the same island – just take a few steps to the side and the time will change.

Finland and the Åland Islands became part of the Russian Empire under the Treaty of Friedrichsgam, signed at the end of the Russo-Swedish War in 1809. For unexplained reasons, the border was drawn right in the middle of Melkert Island and has never been changed.

Melkert Island is part of the Åland Islands and is an uninhabited rocky island with an area of ​​only 3.3 hectares. Despite its small size, the island is jointly owned by two countries. The western part of the island belongs to Sweden, and the eastern part to Finland. Both countries take their territory very seriously: the borders are re-examined every 25 years. This is because the shape and size of the island are constantly changing.

To demarcate the border, 10 markers were drilled into the rocky islands, as strong storms and high waves would destroy any non-essential buildings. Every 25 years, representatives of both countries come here to coordinate the border. The last time this procedure took place was in 2006, when a third country was involved and the Åland Islands had a mandatory agreement.

Market Reef (Market Island). Author – Franz Ellimann.

Dangerous rocks and lighthouse construction

The waters of Botany Bay are considered unsafe due to the number of rocky reefs, shoals and cliffs. In 1873 alone, eight ships sank near Melkert Island. Only experienced pilots can skillfully correct their course and avoid the rocky coastline, which is inaccessible and full of underwater reefs. The terrain is constantly changing, so the dangers for sailors remain to this day. More than 30 ships have sunk in local waters, including two Russian submarines.

Melkert Island was an important navigation point in the past. In 1885, at the initiative of the Russian authorities, a lighthouse was built on this uninhabited island. The project was implemented by the Finnish architect Georg Schreck. The lighthouse was built on the highest point of the island – 3 meters above sea level, so that the foundation would not collapse due to the impact of frequent storms. The lighthouse is located on the Swedish side of the border, which would not be an obstacle to the construction of navigation facilities. At that time, there were no maps showing the exact territorial boundaries of the island.

Although the official location of the lighthouse was on Swedish territory, the Finns continued to use it. Conflict soon broke out between the Nordic countries, which was not resolved until a century after the lighthouse was built. A mutually acceptable solution was found: the piece of land where the lighthouse was located was replaced by the same piece of Finnish land. The result was one of the most unusual Z-shaped borders. At the same time, the territorial demarcation of the coastline was preserved and the rights of fishermen were not violated.

Merket Lighthouse today

The lighthouse was automated in 1979, but was soon abandoned by the Finns and fell into disrepair. Since 2007, volunteers from the Finnish Lighthouse Community have been spending their summers on the island regularly, renovating the lighthouse and telling the rare visitors about the history of the old navigation facility. The foundation is dedicated to the restoration and preservation of old lighthouses as unique historical monuments. For a small fee of Euros you can become a member of the organization and spend time on the island.

On a barren rocky island in the middle of the sea, with no vegetation, all life is concentrated on the lighthouse. With its red and white colors, the lighthouse stands out against the harsh landscape. In addition to the lighthouse, there are several other buildings on Melkert Island.

Up to 12 people can be accommodated in the structure at the same time. The conditions are simple, but everything necessary is available: library, kitchen, workshop, office. All rooms are heated by stoves. In addition, volunteers built a small sauna. To prevent the structure from being blown away by strong winds, it is tied with ropes.

Brand Journey

The coastline around Melkert is still dangerous and not always accessible. In the cold season, the winds are strong and storms are raging. This is one of the windiest places in Finland, so ships mostly arrive here in the summer.

Getting to these desolate places, where no tourists can visit, is no easy task. A boat regularly leaves from Ekerö, the westernmost of the Åland Islands, to bring food and building materials to the volunteers. On Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays in summer, there are also short trips from Calinsund Harbor to Melkert. The journey time is about one hour, and the island trip itself only takes a few hours.

Intrepid travelers, professional romantic photographers, and lighthouse enthusiasts come here to admire the panoramic views. Rare visitors are attracted by the austere, simple Scandinavian landscape, where the sky flows smoothly into the endless water, with a small patch of land visible in the middle, a crack in the rocky ground, and a towering lighthouse.

OJ0JR. Where is Market Reef Märket Island located. Map.