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Konjevrate, or historically Koljevrata, allegedly because of a not-so-innocent passage on the road through a village frequented by highway robbers, is a small suburb of Šibenik, inhabited today by just 179 residents according to the last census. It is best known for its view of the confluence of the Sikola and Krka rivers. And, of course, there is the Konoba Vinko restaurant, to which lovers of meat dishes can make an almost religious pilgrimage, especially those served on a spit.
Given the hot weather, we booked a table inside, although the restaurant has a very nice, shaded terrace. Vinko has received 6 consecutive Michelin recommendations and proudly displays these signs next to the entrance.
For starters we decided to try a cold cut called ham, cheese, thin meat (12€), beer liver pate (10€) and a basket of homemade bread (4€), we also decided to try the homemade soup (6€) and before the starters we had a cold glass of Sibenik herbal tea (2.90€).
The dish was almost conceptual, a large slice of ham cut into three parts, a slice of thin meat, a few slices of mixed sheep and cow cheese (young and from the meat), salty olives and two onion jellies. They make their own bread, white and whole wheat, made from yeast dough, and it was delicious. We loved the thin meat (unfortunately only one schnitzel was offered), the cheese and olives, and the bread, while the ham unfortunately fell behind. It was a bit dry and relatively mild in taste, as if the schnita had been sliced and dried in advance, and the ham could benefit from longer aging. But the thin meat was great, full of tavern flavor, slightly smoky, and served with olive cheese.
The meat sauce was also excellent, with a finger-thick layer of fat that was creamy and rich in flavor. It worked equally well with whole-wheat sesame and flax crackers as well as bread. As far as we were concerned, the thin meat, cheese, olives and meat sauce alone were worth the trip.
The soup was also tasty, dark and had big chunks of beef but lacked a bit of richness.
For main course we decided on veal risotto (18€), beer skewers (16€), breast milk skewers (14€), lamb liver Venetian style (10€) and sides (side dishes to be ordered extra) home-made fried potatoes (5€) and polenta (4€) and a seasonal salad (5€).
The veal risotto was excellent, a Skradin risotto actually. A strong base, the meat turned into a small fibrous and al dente rice, and served with risotto-style homemade grated hard cheese. Simply fantastic.
Pivac is not often found on the menu so we were glad we ordered it, the taste was quite good, the meat was a bit firm as you would expect from a local pivac, the skin was juicy and salty, though not crispy. The taste reminded us of our childhood and wood-fired chicken.
Odojak on a spit is one of Vinko’s signature dishes, but we can’t say we were completely satisfied. Some of the slices were very greasy and only a few of them had a crispy crust, unlike the portion they got at the next table, where all the slices on the tray were crispy.
We were also pleased with the lamb liver, but we weren’t completely satisfied in the end. The liver was a little overcooked and dry, and the sauce separated, but it tasted just as good as the polenta.
We really like fried potatoes because even though it’s a ridiculously simple thing, homemade potatoes sliced in the skin and fried, it’s less common in restaurants than beer. These potatoes can comfortably be paired with some good sauce and become a standalone dish.
The salad (cucumber, cabbage, tomato and lettuce) was homemade but came to the table with almost no seasoning and for some reason there was only salt and pepper on the table but no oil and vinegar. Maybe the staff forgot to put oil and vinegar on the table that day or they only put it on request, we don’t know but they must have had it because on the counter behind the bar we saw a large number of small bottles of olive oil that are usually served at the table.
For dessert we decided on a chocolate (€5.50) and a carrot walnut cake (€5.50) and after debating between raspberry and orange we ordered the orange cheesecake (€5.50) on the waiter’s recommendation.
The chocolate cake was soft and delicious with juicy chocolate biscuits and light cream inside, almost like chocolate mousse.
The carrot pecan cake was even better, with a nice balance of spice from the biscuit and a light cream cheese frosting. The cheesecake was also very good, light and refreshing, with a thin biscuit base and homemade orange buttercream. It’s rare that in a restaurant that specializes in traditional and meat dishes, desserts are so well done and so technically executed.
The wine list is good for a bistro, mostly domestic wines from local producers, which we always welcome. We had Slamić’s Ćacina san (€5.50/1 dcl) and Testament’s Babić (€6.50/1 dcl). Ćača san, a blend of trbljan, debita, pošip and marastina, is a light, almost sweet wine with a delicate acidity, while Babić is a medium-light wine with pleasant tannins and acidity, both wines being excellent accompaniments to the traditional menu.
Considering the popularity and expectations that come with a Michelin recommendation we can’t say we were entirely delighted. It was definitely traditional cuisine of a high standard, with very good local ingredients and a well thought out menu, but perhaps a little more work could have been done on the attention to detail.
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