Fear kept me alive on my African motorcycle trip

At the age of 23, Nigerian musician Udoh Ebaide Joy survived a tragic car accident.

She suffered spinal cord damage and for months she was unable to leave her wheelchair and walk.

But in addition to the pain, Ms Joy also felt an overwhelming sense of clarity.

“It made me decide I was going to live my life to the fullest,” she told the BBC’s Africa Daily podcast.

After recovering, Ms Joy put all her energy and savings into traveling, even converting a 1980s Nissan van into a mobile home.

But Ms Joy’s greatest adventure came this year when, at the age of 32, she became the first black African woman on record to travel solo from East Africa to West Africa on a motorcycle.

The Afrobeat singer travelled 9,000 kilometres (5,600 miles) from the Kenyan city of Mombasa to Lagos, Nigeria, spending more than three months on the road.

Along the way, she experiences gorgeous scenery, visa issues, an underground community of African bikers, traversing “scary” forests, and an epic, tear-jerking celebration back home.

“I was walking alone on those roads and I couldn’t understand the language, so I was always afraid, but it was good because fear kept me alive,” she said.

The journey began earlier this year when Ms Joy flew to Kenya and bought a 250cc motorbike which she named Rory.

She had never ridden a regular bicycle, let alone a motorcycle, so she attended a week-long training course in the capital, Nairobi, to prepare for the adventure.

Then, on March 8, Ms. Joy began her journey, passing through Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda, Tanzania, Zambia, Angola, Republic of Congo, Cameroon and Nigeria.

She chooses to avoid the Democratic Republic of Congo because of conflict and other security issues in the east, as well as poor road conditions.

Kenya was the perfect place to start — “the people, the friendliness” were second to none, she said.

The “crazy” roads of Kampala, Uganda’s capital, naturally presented her with some challenges.

However, after the experience, she cycled to her next destination, Rwanda, and was impressed by its “seamless” border crossing.

Ms Joy faced extra fees, bureaucracy and hours-long delays when entering many other countries.

But Rwanda is one of the few countries on the continent that has visa-free travel for all Africans.

It’s also a “motorcyclist’s dream” – the hilly terrain is perfect for practicing how to lean left and right while riding. Ms Joy really enjoys this.

Tanzania provided Ms. Joy with one of the most memorable meals of the trip.

After riding for hours without seeing a soul, she arrived at a village deep in the forest. A waitress at a local restaurant served the hungry Ms. Joy soup, a large plate of roasted chicken and a bowl of fluffy white rice.

“They were fascinated by a girl on a motorcycle and were interested in my broken Swahili,” she said with a laugh. “We had a great time talking and it was nice to eat and meet.”

Ms Joy visited many sites of cultural significance and natural beauty during her travels with curious locals. She was fascinated by Victoria Falls on the border of Zambia and Zimbabwe.

“It felt amazing! I’d always heard about Victoria Falls – my goodness, it’s one of the seven wonders of the universe,” she said.

During her travels, she met fellow cyclists from different countries who accompanied her on her excursions and recommended places to stay or eat.

An app for cyclists also proved invaluable, allowing her to get tips and other advice.

Ms. Joy set out with the intention of camping on the roadside for the night, but quickly abandoned the idea because it was unsafe. Halfway through the journey, she sent her tent and other camping equipment home to lighten her luggage.

Starting in Kampala, she stayed in cheap hotels—sometimes staying in one place for a few days to explore.

“On days when I ride I cover at least 300 kilometres,” she said, explaining that she often rides overnight.

In Angola, cyclists threw her a party to celebrate her journey so far.

“It’s a small community,” she said, “and no matter where you are, you can meet any cyclist anywhere, anytime, if you’re connected.”

Those who don’t have the ability or inclination to hop on a bike and ride with Ms. Joy can travel with her virtually.

She posts dozens of fascinating mini-vlogs on social media, captivating audiences around the world with her humor and sincerity.

As long as there’s internet, she sends the recordings to someone at home who edits the footage for her and posts the video.

By the end of her trip, she had over 100,000 Instagram followers.

Many of these supporters are women who are proud to see Ms. Joy overcome gender-based stereotypes.

She showed the world that she was a woman on a bike, fulfilling her own adventure and doing something for herself.

One person commented: “Thank you for showing the world how amazing women can be!”

Ms Joy faced no discrimination when meeting people during her travels.

“People ask about negative things, but I haven’t experienced that,” she said.

“Yes, people are obsessed with girls on bikes, but I haven’t had any bad experiences with them.”

The positivity she encountered throughout her journey reached its peak when she reached her final destination, Lagos, a major city in Nigeria.

Cyclists and other members of the public filled the streets to give her a hero’s welcome at an event organised by Nigeria’s Ministry of Arts and Culture.

“When I arrived, I couldn’t hold back my tears. People were dancing and cheering. I couldn’t contain my excitement,” Ms Joy recalled.

After sleeping non-stop for “three days straight,” she credits the trek with changing her outlook on life.

“This trip has taught me that I have the resilience and perseverance to overcome any challenges life throws my way,” she said.

“I had the best time of my life.”

However, she has no plans to retire yet. In just over a month, she will leave Nigeria for Morocco.

She explains that cycling is a “lifelong activity” – it has taken her to the most wonderful places and has allowed her to meet the most wonderful people.