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Beyond nasi lemak: Daniel Sia of The Coconut Club is taking Singaporean brands overseas

Broadcast United News Desk
Beyond nasi lemak: Daniel Sia of The Coconut Club is taking Singaporean brands overseas

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The restaurant has always had its detractors, usually over the price of its nasi lemak. Its signature fried chicken drumstick, which includes a spiced fried chicken drumstick with nasi lemak, a fried egg, fried anchovies, peanuts, cucumber and sambal sauce, increased in price from S$12.80 in 2016 to S$21 in 2023. Last week, the price was reduced to S$18 across all outlets.

“We try to keep wages as cheap as possible, but we also want to be a fair employer,” Sia said. “The cost of living has gone up. In order for our employees to survive, their wages have to be at a certain level. Just because you work in a nasi lemak restaurant doesn’t mean you don’t need to pay the market rate.” Our wages are comparable to those in fine restaurants.”

No one skimps on ingredients either: The coconuts used for the coconut milk have been sourced from the same family plantation in Malaysia since day one, and are cold-pressed on-site using a proprietary temperature-controlled machine.

‘Not trying to reinvent’

Sia used a mix of Mawa and Kampong coconuts for a lighter taste. “We wanted to strike a balance between the floral and ‘coconuty’ notes,” says Sia, whose discerning palate has been honed since the age of 11, when his Nyonya grandmother would send him out to buy specific groceries, such as SCS unsalted butter, for her cooking.

The restaurant uses two-year-old Thai jasmine rice, which has a slightly mushy texture but remains chewy even when mixed with sambal. The ikan bilis is a premium ingredient that is thoroughly cleaned, gutted, decapitated and split in half, so it still has a meaty flavor even after being fried. The sambal (fried chili paste) that goes with nasi lemak is made every two to three days, combining fresh ingredients such as lemongrass, onions and garlic and simmering over low heat for several hours.

“There are always people who think nasi lemak should be $5, but there are also people who become our repeat customers. They find the concept refreshing, and instead of having to sit in a hot hawker centre, they can eat authentic food in a cosy environment. We don’t do any fusion here. We’re not trying to reinvent. We’re just bringing back dishes that we no longer have in restaurants,” said Sia.

Think Sotong Sumbat Telur Asin Lemak Chilli Padi, a traditional Malay dish of squid stuffed with salted egg yolk and served with spicy turmeric and coconut sauce, usually only made at home. Another is Udang Bakar with Sambal Belimbing, which is grilled tiger prawns with sambal titek and pickled belimbing. Both dishes are only available on the restaurant menu on the second floor of the flagship store.

Sia shared that he exchanged belimbing (a sour green fruit) and kueh (a local snack or dessert) with two friends who own a tree.

He added: “We pickle the fruit to preserve it and keep it on the menu until it’s sold out.”

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