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Not long ago, I strolled around the splendid Jardín Etnobotánico with its founder and director, Alejandro de Ávila Blomberg. When I asked him how he explained the extraordinary biodiversity of the area, he replied that “it all depends on the soil”. The diversity in biology and geology, expressed through a vast array of flowers, plants and landscapes, also translates into an equally astonishing diversity of culture and traditions: food, architecture, design, life here are all very diverse. Here are the reasons why Oaxaca is one of the most interesting and most visited states in Mexico. I was born and live in Mexico City, but I have been traveling to Oaxaca for as long as I can remember. If anyone asks me why I love this place so much, the answers are always two and the same: its blue sky and its transparent light. The architecture of the city of Oaxaca tells stories of both the ancient and the modern. The streets and squares of Historic Center They are dotted with colonial monasteries and often flanked by inviting new restaurants. Mezcalerias and design studio. The unique green stone—— Green Quarry – distinguishes the city’s ancient architecture, but is also used by contemporary architects: when it rains, it takes on a pale color that seems almost unreal to me, an optical effect that has always fascinated me.
There are other places where immersing myself in the nearby countryside makes me feel like I’ve stepped back in time: Monte Albán – the large and luxurious Zapotec city perched on a hilltop – or the more intimate Mitla, with its small courtyards and fascinating geometric structures and ornaments. They offer realistic insights into the region’s pre-Hispanic past, although both have been replaced by growing urbanization. In the most remote of all, Yagur, wandering through the ruins opens up the imagination: I could spend hours imagining what life was like here at the height of pre-Columbian civilization. There’s no shortage of natural wonders here either.
Like Hierve el Agua, a vast pool of water on a steep rock face, believed by some to be a mysterious source of water with healing properties. These travertine formations look like waterfalls frozen in time, while the man-made pools create a connection with the raw elements of the land, with water to swim in. The convents and churches you see were mostly built by Dominican friars in the 16th century: with thick walls, vaulted ceilings and small windows, they are a great refuge from the heat and muggy weather, and an example of the interpenetration of Spanish and indigenous elements, right down to the architecture.
But this region doesn’t exist in the past. Oaxaca City, in particular, is constantly evolving, but the state as a whole is multicultural, if not the multiculturalism typical of Western metropolises. Sixteen indigenous languages are still spoken here, including Amuzgo, Chatino, Zapotec and Mixtec, and there’s a large community of Mexican and foreign retirees and young digital nomads who bring creativity and energy. Some would say they’re drawn here primarily for the food, which is partly true: Mexico’s culinary scene is considered among the best, with flavors that reflect both pre- and post-Hispanic traditions and feature high-quality, locally grown ingredients.
Folk leisure: a relaxed travel style
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Finally, for those who want to immerse themselves in a faraway world, ancient Zapotec culture thrives in the quiet enclave of San Juan de Gravia, a town of 3,300 residents outside Oaxaca. It’s not as well-known as nearby Teotitlán del Valle and San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya, which have vibrant weaving traditions and baroque churches. But in its plazas, streets and markets, you can get a glimpse into the past. In its elusive glow, you can discover something far removed from the hustle and bustle of modernity: a place as timeless as the land on which it was built.
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