Baga friends are very different from each other, thank goodness

In the middle of the harvest, the Baga Friends (Luís Pato, Filipa Pato, Quinta das Bágeiras, Sidónio de Sousa, Quinta da Vacariça, Niepoort and Palace Hotel do Buçaco) open their doors to show what they are doing. For three days they include lunch and dinner, always with lots of wine (not just Baga reds of course), the highlight being the joint wine tasting in the romantic Hotel Buçaco, followed by a dinner in honor of the centenary of the Almeida Alexandria Hotel (Buçaco is one of them).

There is no space to talk about all the wines made by the Friends of Bágeiras. There are many and they are varied. For example, browsing the portfolio of Luís Pato and his daughter Filipa Pato (from Niepoort and Quinta das Bágeiras) is a testing procedure in itself. They are both dazzling creators, always trying new winemaking paths, new interpretations of grape varieties and Bairadina soils.

What is most impressive about Baga Friends is their heterogeneity. For example, there is a huge distance between a Baga made by Dirk Niepoort and another Baga made by François Chasans from Quinta da Vacariça. The red wines of Vacariça are almost impenetrable when new, they are so dark and tannic, while the Baga from Quinta de Baixo in Niepoort are open in color, elegant and noticeably light. The red wines of Bussaco are also different from the others, especially because they are made with grapes from Bairrada and Dão. The wines of Bagheiras are classic and very personal, also different from the reds of the Pato family, which are largely determined by the particularities of each vineyard, especially the type of soil that nourishes the roots of the vines. Sidónio de Sousa also has his own personal brand, based on spicy acidity.

In short, it is a complementary group and, to some extent, reflects the great potential of Bairrada and even the level of skill in the region. With the Baga Friends wines, you get a sense of what Bairrada is and what it can be, that it can be both modern and classic at the same time and that there is no single way to get the best out of the vineyard. It all comes down to taste and working philosophy. That is why you can’t condemn Dirk Niepoort for making a decidedly pale Baga red, a point worth repeating, nor can you accuse those who insist on more classic reds of being throwbacks because they don’t keep up with current trends. As we know, chasing fashion never produces good results.

Here are six wines that struck a chord with us, selected from the many wines tasted at the Friends of Baga event. They may not be the best from each producer, but they represent each of their work well.

Sidonio de Sousa Garafera Red Wine 2011

The Sidónio de Sousa family has been involved with wine for three generations, but only started bottling under their own name in 1990. Their first wine, made exclusively from Baga, dates back to 1995 and is one of the greatest wines in recent history. Bairrada. The last vintage to come to market was the 2009, and it was just as excellent. This says everything about the philosophy of the brand. Before being sold, Baga Sidónio de Sousa matured for several years under the dim lights of the cellar. The next vintage, which is coming soon, will be the 2011, which is also expected to make history. This is a red wine with the hallmarks of the brand: powerful tannins, vibrant acidity and huge complexity. Everything about it is big, but not over the top – the hallmark of a great wine. It has strong chemical and balsamic aromas, but still with lots of black fruit, the flavors are broad and full of freshness. A wine that immediately grabs you. Superb.