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Roxas City, the capital of Capiz province, is experiencing a massive construction and development boom, and the Port of Curaci (the gateway to North Panay, Romblon, Lucena, and Batangas) is constantly improving.
New resorts and restaurants were built along the waterfront (Baybay), a shopping mall and an interprovincial bus terminal were constructed, and a “city within a city” development, a town called Pueblo de Panay, was built where Capiz’s first multi-story apartment and office buildings were located.
Located about two hours from Iloilo, the city was named in 1951 after its most prominent son, former President Manuel Roxas. Capiz is the Spanish word for kapis, a palm-sized bivalve with a translucent shell that is often used in window panes, lanterns, chandeliers, wind chimes, and other artwork. Ilonggo (Hiligaynon) is also widely used here.
In 1997, Thomasite teacher Mary H. Fee wrote a fascinating (and often arrogant and condescending) account of Capiz, Filipinos, and public school life in the first decade of the 20th century. Impressions of Filipino women (1910).
Fei wrote: “…the first impression was the most charming and the one I will never forget. Tall, square, white, red-tiled houses lined the banks of the river; picturesque groups of people flapped their clothes on the flat steps leading down to the river; in the distance there was a huge wooden bridge, and the stream turned abruptly to the right.”
“To the left of the bridge was a grassy square with almond trees, a stately church, a few low stone buildings that I knew were the prison and the municipal area, and a flagpole with the Stars and Stripes at the top fluttering in the breeze. The sky was blue, the air clear. Behind the town, a low, forestless mountain rose above the palm trees with its grassy shoulders, and in the distance a range of purple mountains. I knew I would like Capiz.”
Sights, Sounds, Landmarks
For many coming from the neighboring island of Iloilo, Capiz is just a stopover on their way to Boracay and Kalibo for the Ati-Atihan festival, or as it’s nicknamed ghostMany people are unaware that the province has a rich and fascinating culture and history, and that Aklan was only separated from Capiz in 1956.
My favorite part of Roxas City is Old Town. This area is about four blocks in size and is filled with historic buildings—the century-old Capitol, bridges, plazas, cathedrals, monuments, and museums. Around this small town, the 1950s and 1960s homes give it a laid-back, peaceful feel. Buildings higher than four stories are rare.
The walking route can be started from anywhere. One way is to start from the fountain, which is the kilometer zero of Capiz – all distances in the province are measured from here. The fountain has been renovated several times in the past, and its current form recalls the original design. By 2025, it will be a full century old.
If you turn right toward the church, you will see the Rizal Monument. It is one of the oldest monuments in the country, built in 1911, right in front of the provincial capitol, and is a solid, plain building designed by William Parsons.
Jesuit historian Rene Javellana said of the Capitol: “Its style was inspired by the California Missions… Elements of classical architecture are evident in the central portico and the extensive use of Roman arches in the windows; it lacks the temple-like appearance of the neoclassical Capitol and City Hall… It is a modern and simplified interpretation of 19th-century Spanish-Filipino architecture.”
An eagle — a tribute to the Americans — is carved above the provincial emblem above the building’s main entrance.
The main landmark across the street is the altar dedicated to the Immaculate Conception. It was originally built in the 1870s and rebuilt in the 1950s after suffering damage from war, storms and earthquakes. The ceiling paintings and altar have been restored to their original appearance, while on the right side near the entrance there is a presentation on the history of Catholicism in the province.
From the church and the neoclassical town hall next door, you can walk across the street to a small square with two ornately designed octagonal historic buildings. One of them is now closed and is also the tourist information center. I would have liked to have a look inside, but it was closed early in the morning. The other is an open pavilion and bandstand built in 1926 under the auspices of the city’s premier social club, the Circulo Galante. Inscriptions in Spanish around the pavilion bear the names of Capiceño elites and Circulo members.
Local historian Christian Acevedo writes that the bandstand was the center of town life, where many festival queens were crowned, and it remains a venue for community events. The bandstand was designed by local architect Jose Roldan.
From here you can overlook the sturdy Roxas City Bridge, which spans the Panay River, the longest river in the province. The bridge connects the main highway and the city’s commercial area to the town of Panay. The sidewalks on both sides of the bridge offer relatively clear views of the river and the riverbank. A riverfront open space is being built on the square and church side.
Walking along Washington Street (the riverbank embankment next to the square), away from the bridge, for about three minutes, you will stumble upon three old houses that were built in the Baha’ina Bato style but have been renovated in a slightly haphazard manner. One of them has been completely demolished, and the old balcony above the entrance to the house is still there, but overgrown with foliage. These three houses, located near the corner of Washington Street and Aglipai Street, all have the Katipunan symbol on the front, indicating that these houses were the houses of the Katipunaros or their supporters.
The street names reflect the Capiz people’s desire for independence. Gregorio Aglipay’s nationalist, anti-monastic and anti-Catholic stance (although he was a Roman Catholic priest) led to the creation of the Philippine Independent Church and the Aglipay Church. From here you can retrace your steps and walk along a side street to the Acuña Family House, where Capiz’s most prominent son, Manuel Acuña Roxas, was born in 1892, a few months before his father Gerardo was killed.
Raised by his mother and grandparents, Roxas had a brilliant academic and political career (bar exam magna cum laude, former governor, House Speaker, Senate President, Finance Secretary, head of the Philippine Independence Negotiations, Constitutional
Congress delegates).
He was eventually elected the last President of the Commonwealth of the Philippines and the first President of the Republic of the Philippines (1945-1948). In an iconic photo, he raised the Philippine flag for the first time while the last U.S. Resident Commissioner, Paul McNutt, lowered the American flag. Less than two years into his presidency, he died of a massive heart attack.
The house is believed to be the oldest surviving Stone House Located in Capiz; there is a historical plaque in front. The house is well maintained and contains period furniture, fixtures and family memorabilia, including documents written by Colonel Nobuhiko, a senior Japanese Army officer who successfully saved Roxas from execution; the house is now managed by the Albar family, relatives of the former president. Former senator, trade secretary and presidential candidate Mar Roxas is his grandson.
Leaving the house and walking back toward the church, you’ll see the bronze Rojas monument in the square, a replica of the Guillermo Tolentino sculpture. Next to it is the Panublion (Heritage) Museum, housed in a large circular building originally built in 1916 to serve as a water tank. This cozy, compact museum features a reading room/library and exhibits on the history of Capiz, as well as two female National Artists from Capiz—music artist Jovita Fuentes and theater artist Daisy Hontiveros Avellana.
Other exhibitions include the Panay Bukidnon (IP) Culture and Tradition – “test” embroidery, using motifs taken from nature, such as ferns and birds, and traditional weapons, such as blowpipes, talibongs, farm implements and agricultural tools.
In May and June 2024, two special exhibitions will feature“War Ear” (Inner struggle) and the commemoration of the founding of the Republic in 1946. Landscape architect Paulo Alcazaren considers the Plaza Roxas “very beautiful, with at least eight well-preserved heritage sites, more than you’d expect in an average plaza.” Today, the church, fountains and several landmarks are brightly lit, making it a great place for an evening stroll. One of the first decrees issued by Mayor Ronnie Dadivas, who was elected in 2019, was to declare the plaza a heritage area.
Attractions nearby
If you have enough time, you can reach the Church of St. Monica in Pan-ay, which is only 2.5 km away and has the largest bell in Asia. It took 70 bags of coins to melt down to make this bell. The bell is over 2 meters in diameter, 1.5 meters high, weighs more than 10 tons, and its sound can be heard eight kilometers away.
Panay is one of the oldest settlements in the Philippines and was a pre-colonial trading center, from which the entire island of Panay was named. Capiz is also known as the seafood capital of the Philippines and is said to supply seafood to many restaurants in Iloilo, just like Aklan. Barangay Banica is famous for its dry fish market.
From the 1850s to the 1910s, Capiz was the largest producer of nipa palms and was also known for making wine from them. One of the first entrepreneurs was Margarita Roxas; her nephew Antonio was the grandfather of future President Manuel. However, in the early days of the United States, prohibitionists managed to shut down alcohol production facilities, dealing a blow to the local economy.
Nevertheless, there are still some local delicacies, such as Work Worka small ball of sticky rice cooked in nipa wine. Other Capiznon rice-based desserts include Heart or glutinous rice, and BikoA sort of Suman. Panurse is a popular cake and pastry shop located behind the Capitol, and “Bread Basket,” a bakery and restaurant in Roxas City, has now expanded to the province of Iloilo. – Rappler.com
Thanks to Cheryl Anne Del Rosario, Director of the Ang Panublion Museum, for providing additional information.
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