How to make one of Melbourne’s most popular breads at home

Focaccia

When you make the dough every day, you start to get to know it: what it needs, when it needs it, how much liquid it can absorb, how far to let the first and second rises (too long and you risk over-rising it and the bread won’t be as fluffy and tall; too short and you won’t reach its full potential). Making this every day in the restaurant means I know this bread very well. It’s been tested at different temperatures, for different times, in the baking pan throughout the baking process and out of the pan at the last few minutes to see if you can get a crispy bottom without the pan and whether it’s worth flipping. I think you can make it just as good in your kitchen at home and I’m glad you’re giving it a try. It’s worth seeking out a good quality extra virgin olive oil as it penetrates deeply into the dough and adds flavor and texture to the bread.

raw material

• 11 g dry yeast
• 15g sugar
• 750 ml (3 cups) warm water
• 940g plain flour
• 43g fine sea salt
• 80 ml (⅓ cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for spreading and drizzling
• Butter for greasing
• 1 tablespoon flaky salt

method

Making the dough

1. The dough will double in size, so you’ll need an airtight container that’s a little larger than you think it will be, and that has a lid that fits. Place the yeast and sugar in the container.
2. Slowly pour in the warm water, stirring vigorously to incorporate the sugar and yeast into the water. Let the mixture sit for 10 minutes to allow the yeast to activate. If the mixture does not begin to bubble, the yeast may be expired or the water may be too hot. If this is the case, start over with a fresh packet of yeast.
3. When the yeast mixture is bubbling, add the flour and then pour the salt on top of the flour (be careful not to let the salt touch the yeast directly, otherwise it will kill the yeast). Mix everything thoroughly by hand for a few minutes until the dough is smooth, lump-free and elastic.
4. Next, pull a portion of the dough away from the edge of the container to form a small well and pour a quarter of the extra virgin olive oil in. Repeat this step three times at equal distances from the edge of the dough until all the oil is used.
5. Now pour the oil into the dough. I like to use this technique: starting at 12 o’clock, fold the outer edge of the dough into the center of the container with your hands, then repeat the same operation at 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock, and finally 9 o’clock, folding the dough into the center each time. Repeat this folding technique two more times, then place the dough seam side down in the container. Seal with a tight-fitting lid and place in the refrigerator to rest for 18-24 hours.

Baking the dough

1. Grease a 30cm x 25cm stainless steel jar with butter. Pour in 60ml (¼ cup) of oil – this may feel like too much, but it isn’t. Tilt the jar so the oil covers the sides and bottom of the jar.
2. Take the dough out of the fridge. Starting at 12 o’clock, fold the dough towards the centre, then repeat at 6 o’clock. Next, fold the dough towards the centre at 3 o’clock, then fold it at 9 o’clock. Repeat once more, then remove the dough from the container and place it in the tin, seam side down. Gently stretch the dough a little, but not all the way to the edges as the dough will expand and fill the tin. Find the warmest spot in your house and let the dough rise for 3-4 hours (but no more than 4 hours), or until it has doubled in size. If your house isn’t warm, turn on the heating, otherwise the dough won’t rise.
3. Preheat oven to 220C fan forced (240C conventional).
4. Once risen, pour a drop of oil on your hands and rub them together. Drizzle about 1 tablespoon of oil over the focaccia and very gently rub the oil over the top of the bread, letting your fingertips sink into the bottom of the baking pan to create indentations in the surface of the bread. Small bubbles should appear on the surface of the bread. Sprinkle with flaky salt and finish with about 1 tablespoon of oil.
5. Place in the oven and bake for 30 minutes, then increase the temperature to 245C and bake for a further 10 minutes, until very crispy on the bottom and a darker than golden on top.
6. Remove from the oven and let cool in the pan for 5 minutes before removing the focaccia to a cooling rack. Allow the focaccia to cool slightly before slicing, about 20 minutes.

notes: If the focaccia is still a little soft on the bottom when you remove it from the baking tray, bake the bread directly on the oven rack at 240°C for a further 5-10 minutes to crisp up the bottom, placing an empty baking tray underneath to catch any drippings.

brand 1 item

Sesame Focaccia

This bread has the same basics as the classic focaccia recipe, but without the emphasis on making a tall, fluffy loaf. This bread is flatter than focaccia and has a toasted, nutty sesame flavor. I toast the bread until it’s very dark, almost burnt. Cut into long strips and piled together, this flatbread looks great dragged through matbukha or chraime fish sauces, or topped with green chilies and tahini. Or you can combine this flatbread with focaccia for a summer grilled meat feast, served with tomatoes drizzled with olive oil and zhoug.

raw material

• 11 g dry yeast
• 15g sugar
• 750 ml (3 cups) warm water
• 940g plain flour
• 43g fine sea salt
• 80 ml (⅓ cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for spreading and drizzling
• Butter for greasing
• 200g sesame seeds

method

Making the dough

1. Place the yeast and sugar in an airtight container. The dough will double in size, so you’ll need to use a large container.
2. Slowly pour in the warm water, stirring vigorously to incorporate the sugar and yeast into the water. Let the mixture sit for 10 minutes to allow the yeast to activate. If the mixture does not begin to bubble, the yeast may be expired or the water may be too hot. If this is the case, start over with a fresh packet of yeast.
3. When the yeast mixture starts to foam, add the flour and salt. Mix everything well by hand until the dough is smooth, non-lumpy and elastic.
4. Next, pull a portion of the dough away from the edge of the container to form a small well and pour a quarter of the oil in. Repeat this step three times at equal distances from the edge of the dough until all the oil is used up.
5. Now, pour the oil into the dough using the following method: starting at 12 o’clock, fold the outer edge of the dough into the center of the container, then repeat the same at 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock, and finally 9 o’clock, folding the dough into the center each time. Repeat this folding method two more times, then place the dough seam side down in the container. Seal with an airtight lid and place it in the refrigerator to rest – you can leave it in for up to two days, but 18-24 hours is ideal.

Baking the dough

1. Grease two sheets of baking paper with butter and place on a flat baking tray that is at least 30 cm long. Pour 20 ml of olive oil on each sheet of baking paper.
2. Use your hands to divide the dough in half and place each half on a tray.
3. Using your palms, gently roll each piece of dough into a long oval loaf, about 2 cm thick. Sprinkle half of the sesame seeds over both loaves, then flip and sprinkle the other side with the remaining sesame seeds, making sure every inch is covered.
4. Let the bread sit at room temperature for 1 hour.
5. Preheat oven to 200C (fan forced) (220C conventional).
6. Before putting the bread in the oven, stretch each loaf slightly with your fingers, leaving a few indentations.
7. Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake for 15 minutes, then increase the temperature to 260°C and bake for another 15 minutes. The bread should now look very dark and the kitchen should smell like toasted sesame seeds. If not, bake for another 5-10 minutes.
8. Remove from oven and let cool for 5 minutes before transferring to a wire rack. Allow to cool completely before slicing.

brand 2

Caviar Stir Caviar

raw material

• 200g good quality unsalted butter, diced and softened
• 40 g caviar (dried mullet or tuna roe), grated
• 1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
• Caviar (optional)

method

1. Beat the butter with an electric mixer fitted with the appropriate attachment for about a minute, until slightly fluffy. Add the grated caviar to the butter along with the olive oil and beat for a few more minutes to evenly incorporate it into the butter. If you want to be a little more indulgent, sprinkle a drop of caviar on top of the butter.

brand About 300g

Whipped sesame seeds and sesame oil

raw material

• 250g unsalted butter, diced, softened
• 7½ tbsp chicken fat (see below)
• 100 g sesame seeds, toasted
• 2½ teaspoons flaky salt
• 75g crispy chicken skin

method

1. Beat the butter on medium speed with an electric mixer fitted with the appropriate attachment until soft and creamy. With the motor running, slowly fold the chicken fat into the butter, then drizzle in the sesame seeds and salt, stirring until combined. Next, add the chicken skin, breaking it up with your fingers, and continue stirring until combined. Taste and add more salt to your liking. Use a spatula to scoop the whipped butter onto a plate in a single layer, trying to form a mountain. If it’s too runny, place the butter in the refrigerator to harden a bit, then try again after a few minutes.

brand About 70g

Create a sad atmosphere

raw material

• 250g chicken skin (and fat if you can)
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

method

1. Gently fry the chicken skin in 1 tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil in a heavy-bottomed frying pan over low heat. Frying the skin releases fat, and as the fat slowly melts, the skin will crisp up until it’s crispy. The melted fat is called chicken fat.
2. Once a fair amount of chicken fat has accumulated in the pan — this should take about 20 minutes — strain the fat into a bowl and set aside.

Serve 4 As a starter

The following are edited excerpts Ellie’s dining table By Ellie Bouhadana, published by Hardie Grant Books. Photo by Lucia Bell-Epstein.