From Massa to Lucca along the roads of the Apuan Alps: admire the views of Versilia by bike

You can design the itinerary to your liking through hiking apps on your smartphone. Among them is Komoot, a navigator that instantly creates a GPS track based on our preferences. Starting from Massa, now accessible by comfortable intercity trains equipped with bicycle transport, you climb along the Passo del Vestito. The road immediately enters the narrow valley of the Frigido, a cold, clear river that flows down from the Tambra River. The sharp turns of the pass touch small towns such as Altagna and Antona, where Italy seems to be stuck in the seventies. Compared to the ordinariness of the coast, you enter another world. In these villages, you may not even find a bar open.

Marble quarries, karst caves, giant pits and widespread art

As you gradually gain altitude, the Apuan Alps begin to reveal their majesty and beauty. The white carvings of the open-air quarries penetrate the green of the woods. The Apuan Alps Botanical Garden near the pass offers guided tours that allow you to discover the local flora. The 360-degree view from this land is very beautiful. A few kilometers further, just before crossing the pass, the Valsora quarries are worth a stop. Featured on movie sets, a small lake inside is still home to rare alpine salamanders, a small amphibian. Then pass through a short tunnel at 1,050 meters above sea level before descending from the Garfagnana side. Ani is the first village you come across. Shortly after leaving the town, the Henraux quarries are another attraction not to be missed: these ancient abandoned quarries are owned by a company founded in the 19th century by a former French soldier. A little further up the road and a short walk through the woods, you will find the Marmitte dei giganti, a natural circular basin carved out by water and ice over millions of years.

The road continues to Castelnuovo, then to Barga and finally to the magnificent Lucca, which is worth a visit in itself. However, those who want to return to the Vesilian side can cross it again through the Cipollaio Tunnel. Stop in Leveriani to visit Antro del Corchia, one of the largest karst caves in Italy and Europe. We are in the UNESCO-designated Geopark of the Apuan Alps. The water has opened seventy kilometers (a section that has been explored) of natural tunnels in the belly of the mountain. Public visits are limited to the first kilometer. But it is still worth it.

Following in Michelangelo’s footsteps

Continuing downhill, you will reach Seravezza, where Michelangelo conducted his surveys in search of the most valuable marbles. The Medici Palace, part of the UNESCO World Heritage Medici Villas, is also worth a visit. A few kilometers later, you reach Pietrasanta, a favorite place for artists and sculptors, full of art and cultural galleries. From there it is only a few moments to the coast. Ride in rapid succession along an uninterrupted series of “baths”, Marina di Pietrasanta, Lido di Camaiore and Viareggio, with the nostalgic elegance of Liberty architecture.

Those who still prefer cycling can continue through the coastal pine forests to Lake Massaciuccoli, where Giacomo Puccini spent his “good retreat” in a house in Torre del Lago, now a museum and a place of worship for opera lovers. A cycle path opened a few months ago leads to Lucca, dedicated to the memory of this great musician. Alternatively, you can continue south along the Tuscan Coast Cycle Route. But that’s another story. Happy cycling!