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Wax is often seen as a symbol of Africa, known for its bright patterns and vibrant colors. However, behind this authentic image lies a little-known reality: wax, as we know it today, was actually an export product.
The history of this fabric defies preconceived notions.
The Origin of Wax: From Indonesia to Africa
Wax has its roots in textile traditionsIndonesiaJavanese artisans used wax to print patterns on cotton. This ancestral craft, called batik, was brought to Europe by British and Dutch colonists. The technique was then used to conquer African MarketThe bright design was designed to attract consumers on the Gold Coast, the pioneers of modern Ghana.
In West and Central Africa, wax spread thanks to the Dutch, but much of the production of the fabric remained under European control. Even today, most wax models come from the Netherlands, and “Made in Africa” is still rare.
Wax Today: Between Globalization and Authenticity
Despite its export history, wax has been widely adopted and integrated into African culture. In Africa, it has become the fabric of choice for various ceremonies and special occasions. Local communities have given wax a cultural and identity significance, even if its origins are foreign.
Marie-Jeanne Serbin-Thomas, founder of Brune magazine and fashion expert, emphasizes that wax is comparable to American products such as soft drinks: consumed in Africa but not originating in Africa. According to her, Africa’s real textile wealth is often overshadowed by such imports.
Wax as a cultural symbol: reality or illusion?
African designers like Imane Ayissi and Woen-Ilga founder Aweni are responding to this cultural appropriation by highlighting authentic traditional fabrics like raffia, faso dan fani and kente. For them, wax, while popular, should not overshadow the diversity and richness of African textiles.
For example, Aweni uses wax with passion but emphasizes that what is most important is cultural appropriation. For her, being African and using local labor is more important than the origin of the fabric. She has successfully modernized wax for everyday use while respecting its cultural roots.
Economic Dilemma: Between Tradition and Modernity
Despite its foreign origins, wax continues to play an important economic role in the following areas: AfricaLocal designers and sellers make a living from its popularity. Marianne Sodogandji, founder of the Eldior Sodeck brand, stressed that the commercial reality is complex: wax is easily available and ubiquitous, while other traditional fabrics such as Bogolan are more expensive and in smaller supply.
It calls for recognition of the economic realities of those involved in the wax trade, while encouraging the promotion of authentic African textiles.
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