Along the Canal du Midi, between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, two rounds of Languedoc

The water highway has now become a paradise for bicycle tourists

This waterway immediately became a success as a communication channel for the transport of goods and passengers. It made it possible to circumnavigate the Iberian Peninsula, saving 3,000 km of dangerous sailing along the coasts of Spain and Portugal, hostile to France. In 1786, at the outbreak of the French Revolution, the canal was nationalized. After 1815, with the Restoration, it returned to the hands of Riquets. In the second half of the nineteenth century, with the advent of railways, the canal gradually lost its significance until it was abandoned in the eighties of the last century. Then, a second life was given thanks to bicycle tourism and pleasure cruises on houseboat barges.

Today, the Canal du Midi is a paradise for bicycle travelers. We start in Toulouse, the capital of Languedoc (or Occitania), a beautiful, wealthy, vibrant city that is easily reached by direct, cheap flights from Italy. Airbus has its headquarters here. In the past, it was one of the strongholds of the Cathars, or Albigensians, a dissident Christian movement that opposed the secular power of the church. In the struggle for control of Languedoc in the late Middle Ages, the Cathars were labeled heretics and persecuted. In 1209, Pope Innocent III, with the motto “Kill them! God will recognize his own,” launched the first crusade against the Albigensians; then a second, until the community was completely wiped out.

Perfect organization

For those who do not want to bring their own bikes, it is easy to find rental bikes in Toulouse, even good quality ones. The itineraries are clearly laid out and the signs are well-signposted. Just follow the route of the channel. For the more technically advanced bicycle tourists, a well-made GPS track can be downloaded from the website www.francevelotourisme.com. After about 240 square kilometers (with little difference in altitude), you will arrive in Sète, a small town located on the Thau lagoon. The Canal du Midi ends here. It is a body of water that communicates with the Mediterranean Sea. A narrow strip of sand and magnificent dunes separate it from the sea. When you arrive in Sète, the renter can provide the bike recovery service on his own. There are several canal guides on the market. The planning phase is about three to six days, depending on your preferences.

Under the shade of the sycamore tree

At Toulouse, the Canal du Midi joins the Garonne. From there the voyage to Bordeaux continues northwest along the river. Starting from the Port de l’Embouchure in the city center, following the canal, one begins riding on the chemin de halage (or towpath), a path along the embankment, parallel to the canal, on which horses tow boats. Thousands of plane trees provide ample shade for cyclists for much of the journey to Carcassonne. For about twenty years, the charm of this landscape has been disturbed by a parasite that has caused an epidemic among the plane trees. Many trees have been cut down, especially from Carcassonne onwards. Thousands of plants have also been carefully replanted. But it will be many years before the landscape returns to its original appearance.

Carcassonne, Saumur and Beziers: the jewels in the crown

There are many villages along the canal, some very picturesque, where you can stop to rest, eat and sleep. About forty kilometers after Toulouse, the watershed lies at Narouz. Soon after, the large artificial basin of Castelnaudary (the main port of the canal) was built. Then there is Carcassonne, a splendid medieval city with double walls, another stronghold of the Albigensians. At the end of the 19th century, the fortress of Carcassonne was subjected to a controversial restoration by the star architect of the time, Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, who was later criticized for his over-imaginativeness in the restoration process. The castle is a bit like a medieval Disneyland. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Carcassonne is still worth a visit.