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The terminology used in the Ambienta report is powerful and evocative: Roadblocksa boulder that really blocks the way. The reference is to “Greenwashing in fashion” – this is the title of the study edited by Federica Mallone and Fabio Ranghino, respectively manager and partner of this investment company with interests in various sectors, a portfolio of 3 billion euros and a Northern Star, Environmental Sustainability. According to the study, it is the practice of “greenwashing” (again, the English neologism conveys the idea better) that blocks the path to a truly sustainable textile fashion industry.
The data is known and worrying: Textile waste We learned in the Ambienta study that globally emissions amount to around 92 million tonnes per year, equivalent to the weight of around 65 million cars. Fabric can take up to 200 years to decompose (obviously depending on the type of fabric), and as product quality deteriorates, the lifespan of a garment also shortens: many garments are worn less than ten times before being thrown away.
In the absence of one person Circular Turn60% of textile waste ends up directly in landfill or incineration, while separate waste collection currently only accounts for around 40% of total textile waste in Europe. Despite this, there are many collection projects aimed at upcycling, thanks to commitments from industry associations such as Confindustria Moda and Sistema moda Italia. However, to date, only 34% of separate waste collection is retained in Europe: most of it (the remaining 66%) is sent abroad with poor traceability.
Ultimately, only 27% of all textile waste in Europe is reused or recycled. As a whole (we should clearly distinguish between fast fashion, ultra-fast fashion and luxury), the fashion industry is driven by volume, even if there are designers – both pioneers and latecomers Vivienne Westwood – They coined slogans such as “Buy less, buy better”. However, as the Ambienta report highlights, the reality is that as the number of items purchased per capita increases worldwide, the average price per item is falling (-16% between 2013 and 2023), a trend that is even seen in online fast fashion operators such as Asos, Boohoo and, more recently, China. Shane Enter the market at a lower price.
However, catalysts for change can support the transition, at least in Western countries or those with more advanced rule systems. Ambienta cites positive factors, including regulation, consumer awareness (the global used car market will account for 12% of the total market in 2023, with a CAGR of 22% expected from 2021-2024) and brand resale: resale programs (some prefer the term Old Love) has increased from 5 pieces in 2019 to 124 pieces in 2022, helping to reduce emissions by about 25% and water consumption by about 30% compared to purchasing new clothing.
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