Great camping trip in the Norwegian mountains

On the way to the Urkeegga ridge trail, it ripples between the stones at our feet. We are approaching green mountains. The slopes are covered with rocky gullies, waterfalls and snowfields, whose meltwater flows into rivers gushing in the canyons beside. These mountains are over 1,000 meters high and have a striking shape like typical Alpine mountains, which may explain why it is named Sunnmørsalpene near Ålesund, Norway.

Around 300 meters above sea level, the trees are sparse and the mountain scenery opens up. On the green slopes above, a Ring Thrush jumps between the ferns. When we reach a small mirror-like lake called Litlevatnet, Lilla sjön, the water ripples everywhere. As we let our tired bodies rest for a while on the rocks, we gaze at the surrounding Sunnmørsalpen and its green and white slopes. On the high ridges, ant-like figures move. The path there is marked with black, which means it is a challenging hike.

The vast Kalfjället breathes There was endless silence, while the clouds hung like a shroud over the ridge, obscuring the view. We continued upward, now wearing jackets and hats.

The hike was demanding, avoiding rocks and keeping balance with a heavy backpack was not easy. I stumbled. A hundred meters away, out of the clouds, a Norwegian family we had seen before appeared. They were on the right path, not us. We adjusted before changing the route and walked a few steps to the top of the mountain where we were. Good luck.

Everything is forgotten now – the mud on the trousers, the involuntary detours, the fatigue. Because the clouds have parted and a divine view is visible. We enjoy the view of the next mountain, Maudekollen, and the view of Norangsfjord, surrounded by the partly snow-covered Sunnmørsalpen.

The final hard climb remained. Once at the top, the ridge walk began – with clear views in both directions. Now that the weather had cleared, we were struck by the views of the fjord and the mountains.

The reward for reaching the top of Modkollen is a snowman and an indescribable view. Once again we are thankful for the window in the clouds. It is now seven in the evening and the Sunnmørsalpene feels stronger and closer than ever. The same is true for the Norangfjord.

With only one hill left, a tough gangster needed our last bit of strength, and a victory of labor brought us to the top. Egilbu was clearly visible, a sheltered spot with magnificent views. Unlike most tourists who choose to hike Urquiga for a day trip, we stayed here overnight.

The next morning at five o’clock, the sun was shining and the wind was calm. There was not a cloud in the sky. There were only rugged peaks as far as the eye could see. The mountains were reflected in the fjord. The view, even from the doorless room, was unparalleled. Life felt complete. We sat on the top of the sunlit hill and enjoyed a breakfast of homemade granola and oat milk.

I am living my dream here. It is hard but worth it.

Good to be back After civilization, we headed to Kaihuset Restaurant in Urke Harbor, where we had delicious venison burgers and met Marius Tuene, who runs the restaurant and grilled huge steaks on an outdoor grill not far from Norangsfjorden.

– Here I have fulfilled my dream. I can experience amazing nature and own my own restaurant. It is hard work, but it is worth it, he said, sweeping his hand over the picturesque surroundings.

The next few days are all about us – trying to experience the many hikes in the magnificent nature of the Sunnmørsalpen. We hike to Molladalen and then climb Saksa. The latter is a bug that saps our energy on an extremely wet day. Both are demanding hikes that reward you with magnificent nature experiences and sweeping mountain views.

A few days later We walk to Runde Island, just over an hour’s drive from Urk, where we will see puffins and learn more about this animal with its penguin-like body, clown face with a large beak and a sad expression.

Johannes Nikolai Antonsen, a nature guide from Runde Miljøsenter, took us through a marshland to the birds’ favourite rocks, where white meadow hairs swayed in the wind and cliffs more than 200 metres high plunged into the sea.

The reason puffins choose to nest in Runde is because of the food available there. Puffins love snipe, which are usually plentiful here, because snipe thrive on the gravel and sandy seafloor around Runde. There is also a slightly longer answer:

– We have a good place for them, says Johannes, with hollows between large rocks and grassy plateaus where they can dig holes and live.

We have done it Lundeura, the favorite rock of the puffins. The crowd of more than 50 visitors was filled with anticipation, and when a bird landed next to the fence of the bird sanctuary, there was a buzz in the audience. For our sake, even Johannes was hopeful.

For the next half hour, only a few birds showed themselves up close, while most of the time they put on a spectacular show. Thousands of birds flew between the cliffs and the Norwegian Sea. At least as many floated offshore in the evening light, with the huge cliffs, Niland Island and the endless sea as a backdrop. We were overwhelmed by the experience of nature.

We return A day later, it was past ten in the evening, and most of the tourists were coming down from the cliffs that the puffins loved the most. In the dusk light, the scene was like a dream, with hundreds of puffins on the surrounding rocks. When they landed, they would shake their heads several times, stand still, preen their feathers, walk around, and some would touch each other’s beaks. Most of them just stood and looked around, and some kept a certain distance from us.

The next morning we were out on a boat trip. The Aquila, which holds 12 passengers, rocked effortlessly through Lundafjord as Captain Johan Moltu told us about the birds we might encounter on the trip. The first thing he did was make a promise.

– You will see lots of puffins – until you get tired. You will get to see cormorants up close and you can even see the color of their eyes!

The boat slowed down and everyone on board jumped up and yawned. Thousands of puffins were circling in the air and swimming easily in the water beside us. Other seabirds such as thrushes and herring dolphins were also swimming around. Of course, there was no getting around to seeing birds in the sea around the huge green cliffs of Runde.

Fortunately, the sea is If the weather is calm, we can visit the sea caves, where the few remaining kittiwakes live in the rocks deep inside the caves. The atmosphere in the cathedral-high caves is eerie, and the constant screams of the seagulls echo like a heartbreaking cry for help.

Soon the boat came to rest in front of a rock in the sea covered with the droppings of the top cormorants. In this habitat, the birds come very close. Sure enough, they are as close as promised – with green eyes.

At the last stop we stopped at a huge cliff, the only nesting site in Norway. Thousands of large seabirds. Some sat on the rocks, others flew around. Snow-white feathers, golden necks and wingspans up to 180 cm reminded one of a flying angel.

We were completely stunned by the scene until the ship sailed back to Lund Harbor.

The adventures around Sunnmørsalpen can be of completely different types, but all are memorable.

Here you can find our trip report.