How to create a work of art on a canvas just two centimeters long

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Composite image of Tanya Barlow on the left and her nail art on the right. Tanya holds her hands up to show her nails. She is wearing a black dress and a heart-shaped necklace.

Tanya Barlow is an Auckland-based multidisciplinary artist known for her intricate nail designs.
photo: Tanya Barlow

For Auckland nail artist Tanya Barlow, other people’s nails are a canvas for her imagination to run wild.

While customers sometimes want a specific design on their nails, Barlow said the “inspiration” they bring is usually just a vibe or cultural reference to kick off a creative collaboration.

Yellow-orange sunset nails inspired by “Leo season vibes” with red, black and gold nails In the Mood for Love Bright green nails are painted with surreal brown slugs, which are her recent creations.

The slug manicure that Barlow had an overseas nail artist create was the latest “artist’s choice” from an open-minded regular customer.

“I was like ‘You know what would make this so gross and cool? Slime trails. She was obsessed with it,” she told Emile Donovan.

Slug manicure by Auckland nail artist Tanya Barlow

photo: Tanya Barlow / @hellotanya

Barlow said nail art doesn’t have to be “pretty and cute,” though she did receive some criticism when she posted a photo of her manicure on Instagram.

“People were like, ‘Oh my god, they’re gross.’ And I was like, ‘Hey, guys, they’re awesome.'”

The slugs were sculpted using 3D gel on a bright green background, which Barlow then painted tan before layering dark brown over them to create a “slug texture”.

“I love looking at complex designs and reverse engineering them. I’ll think ‘Okay, how did they do that? Can I do that, too?'”

While Barlow’s clients sometimes want a specific design on their nails, usually they’ll just give her a word, vibe or cultural reference as “inspiration.”

“I had a client last week who was inspired by a movie—one of my favorite movies— In the Mood for LoveHow do you translate a Wong Kar-wai film into a nail? We brainstormed. We looked at screenshots. I said, “Okay, we have to be very abstract.”

“We chose a deep red as the base colour. We sprayed on some black, slightly moody elements to symbolise the night. Then we used gold chrome strokes, if you will, to symbolise the lights inside.

“I just thought, this is something I really love doing. I feel really lucky.”

While some nail technicians ask for an “inspiration” photo 48 hours before the appointment, Barlow likes to surprise herself on the day of the appointment.

“I like the slightly masochistic side of it. I do like the surprise when a customer says, ‘I want this crazy thing.'”

“It’s very much an interpretation, and I like the interpretation very much, which is why I’m so passionate about these damn slugs.”

Barlow said that while an elaborate manicure can be time-consuming — more than two hours, including removing old polish — it won’t interfere with your life.

“If gymnasts can do it in the Olympics (wearing fake nails), you can do anything. You just have to adjust or relearn. Honestly, if I cut my nails, I’d have to relearn how to type. I do a lot of things with my knuckles… There’s nothing I can’t do.”