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Snacks, pasta, schnitzel, ice cream. For the chef behind The Mushroom Book, the uses for mushrooms are endless.
Chef and forager Jørgen Ravneberg says the book took four years to make.
The idea came to him as he and co-writer and collector Jim-André Stene were preparing to record a podcast during the coronavirus pandemic.
– It took quite a long time because we wanted to know everything, Jim knew about species and I knew about food and tastes, says Ravneborg, who works as a chef at the Kolonihagen restaurant in Oslo every day and has previously published several books on wild plant collection.
Ravneborg was a little intimidated by mushroom foraging, but learned a lot after a thorough introduction by Stene, who created a new book that describes 100 of the best mushrooms, where to find them and what they can be used for.
Suitable for mixed forest
Ravenberg doesn’t have to travel far for a mushroom trip; he did one last year. Wink Post Towards Grefsenkollen, just outside Oslo. But he avoided the most travelled roads.
– That forest is old, which means fungi grow well here. The chef says that over time, the roots of the mushrooms and the trees have become bonded to each other.
The toe of the shoe must always be in sight. If you look too far ahead, you will quickly miss the mushroom.
– Many edible mushrooms grow best in mixed forests, preferably spruce and birch. Fungi can be found on flat terrain and slopes as long as there are trees. This applies especially to chanterelles.
Favorite mushroom?
Ravneborg’s favorite is the porcini.
— mainly because it can serve multiple purposes in the kitchen, from snacking to dessert, he said.
-Mushrooms can be a great alternative to meat because they are high in protein and umami, and are full of lots of other flavors.
Co-author Jim-André Stene’s favorite mushroom is the scarlet spring cup. Stene, Norway’s uncrowned “Sanker King,” is general manager of Trøndelag Sankeri, a company that supplies edible wild plants and mushrooms to restaurants across the country.
They share detailed tips on where to look for mushrooms. For example, Ravneborg’s favorite boletus doesn’t like blueberry heather, but looks for mossy forest floors. Also search between stone piles, in wet forests, bogs, etc.
They have some good rules about mushrooms that you should stay away from:
- Avoid all pure brown and pure white disk mushrooms. Many of these are poisonous.
- Keep an eye out for green fly agaric, which is confusingly similar to green cream.
- Use a good mushroom book and the “Mushroom Control” app. Here you can send in photos of your mushrooms and get help from a mushroom expert through the app.
1 out of 3Photo: Olaf Olsson/Aftenposten
Mushrooms like Krokan
The book shares many recipes that feature mushrooms as the star. But one in particular stands out: mushroom ice cream. Ravneborg learned to use mushrooms in desserts while working at the three-star French restaurant Regis Marcon. They specialized in mushrooms and lentils there.
– Banana dessert with morels, chocolate and caramelized porcini was one of the things I learned there. The porcini are soaked in cocoa butter and dried, then caramelized and become a kind of krochan, which is then mixed with milk chocolate. It’s you!
He then experimented with different varieties of porcini caramel and made ice cream with porcini and other mushrooms.
– It might sound a little funky, but it’s very good.
Below they share four recipes from the book.
Cheese and Pepper Pasta
raw material
4 tablespoons sunflower oil
400 g mushrooms, divided into equal parts
salt and pepper
2 medium scallions, chopped
450g spaghetti or bucatini, thicker bucatini works best
1.2 dl heavy cream
100 g parsley or wild parsley, chopped
Zest and juice of ½ lemon
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces
20 g grated Norwegian hard cheese, preferably Bufar
Here’s What You Need to Do
1. Heat the oil in a large wok or skillet over medium-high heat. Fry the mushrooms in a single layer, without stirring, until they are browned and beginning to crisp around the edges. This should take about 3 minutes. Then turn the mushrooms over and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until all sides are browned and crispy, about 5 minutes later.
2. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the mushrooms to a plate and season with salt.
3. Reduce heat to medium-low and return mushrooms to pot. Add shallots and cook, stirring frequently, until shallots are translucent and soft.
4. Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until pasta is almost al dente, about 2 minutes less than package instructions suggest.
5. Using tongs, transfer the pasta to the pot with the mushrooms and add the cream and 2 dl of pasta water. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring constantly, until the pasta is al dente and the liquid has thickened slightly.
6. Remove from heat and add lemon zest and juice, parsley, butter, cheese and plenty of pepper. Stir to combine, taste and add more cheese to taste.
Lamb and Tempura
raw material
90 g wheat flour
60 g corn starch
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 pinch of salt
1 egg
1 ½ dl water, preferably soda water for an airier mixture
Ingredients may be dried and ground for additional flavor, such as dried soy flour.
Mushrooms are optional, here we use tempura.
Here’s What You Need to Do
1. Combine the wheat flour, corn starch, baking powder and salt in a bowl. Beat in the egg and add the water. Quickly mix the ingredients together but be careful not to over-mix the batter. It should be a little lumpy and not too chewy.
2. If you want to add more flavor, you can add some dry ground ingredients to the batter, such as sponge powder. Heat the oil in a deep fryer or large pot to 170 degrees. Use a thermometer to ensure the correct temperature.
3. Dip the mushroom pieces into the tempura batter, making sure they are completely coated, then drain any excess batter. Fry the mushrooms in the hot oil until golden and crispy. This should take about 2-3 minutes, depending on the size of the mushroom pieces.
4. Carefully remove the mushrooms from the oil using a slotted spoon and transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper to drain any excess oil.
5. Add salt to taste.
Thorpe Schnitzel
raw material
4 Portobello or Porcupine mushrooms
0.5 lemon, peeled
4 SS soybeans
1 tablespoon seaweed, powdered
8 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons honey
For breadcrumbs
Egg
flour
Breadcrumbs
Here’s how to do it:
1. Cut the mushrooms into 2 cm slices. Add lemon zest, soy sauce, honey, seaweed powder and olive oil to a bowl and mix well.
2. Place the liquid in a plastic bag and put the mushrooms in. Squeeze all the air out of the bag and tie it tightly again. Leave the mushrooms to marinate on the kitchen counter for an hour or two, or in the refrigerator overnight if you have time.
3. Prepare the breadcrumbs by whisking the eggs until they form a liquid mass, placing the flour on one plate and the breadcrumbs on another. Add a pinch of salt to the flour.
4. Take the mushrooms out of the bag and dip them first in flour, then in egg and finally in breadcrumbs. Repeat several times to get a thicker breadcrumb.
5. Fry the mushrooms in sunflower oil at 160 degrees until golden and crispy. Put some salt flakes on them and place the mushrooms on a wire rack or kitchen paper to let the oil drain.
Shitake Mushroom Pie with Mushroom Croquette and Mushroom Caramel
raw material
5 dl cream
5 dl milk
4 tablespoons mushroom powder, caramelized, dried or fried in cocoa butter
180 g sugar
10 egg yolks, lightly beaten by hand
Here’s What You Need to Do
1. Bring the cream, milk, sugar and mushroom powder to a boil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. When the liquid reaches boiling point, remove the pot from the heat. Slowly pour the boiling liquid over the gently stirred egg yolks while whisking vigorously.
2. Dip the back of a spoon into the batter and blow gently to see if a sticky pattern forms to make sure everything is well mixed. The batter should look like the consistency of thin custard. If not, carefully reheat the mixture to 85 degrees, stirring constantly.
3. Be careful not to overheat as this will cause the eggs to curdle and the batter to become grainy. When the mixture reaches the right consistency, strain it to remove any lumps or larger pieces of mushrooms.
4. Allow the ice cream mixture to cool on the counter first, then in the refrigerator until completely chilled. Then run the cooled mixture through an ice cream machine according to the machine’s instructions.
5. Transfer the finished ice cream to a suitable container and freeze until solid, usually at least four hours, before serving.
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